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ZZP Racing Short Block - ZZ-ECTFSB
ZZP Racing Short Block - ZZ-ECTFSB

ZZP Racing Short Block

Availability: Call/Email for Availability
Usually ships In Call/Email for Availability
Price: $3,599.99

    Option 1:
    Option 2:
    Option 3:
    Option 4:
    Option 5:

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     Engines include:

    • Your choice of pistons, rods, balance shafts, damper, flywheel
    • Gen 3 block(if selected) with ZZP's exclusive engine girdle
    • Chromoly rings
    • OEM Flywheel bolts
    • ATI balancer (overdrive or underdrive) -if selected
    • New bearings
    • New seals
    • New front cover & oil pump included
    • Oil pan with oil return for turbo (turbo models)
    • Fully balanced rotating assembly
    • Comp Cams break in oil

    No Core Charge!

    ZZPerformance short blocks are the industry's best choice for  performance, strength and reliability. Every detail of the ZZP short block has been fine tuned for extremely long life and high performance. Each engine is built using the finest components, eliminating factory weak points and upgrading everything needed to withstand the abuse of a driving enthusiast. 

    Our engines start with a GM block, disassemble and clean, install ZZP custom girdle, square deck, resurface deck to a finish finer than OEM, and we replace the oil plugs. If selected, the balance shafts are replaced with ZZP neutral balance shafts. Oiling to vital engine components is increased. On the stroker engine option the GM crankshaft is modified for use in this application. Improvements are made to ensure reliable operation. 

    Only ZZP has been to 898whp without failure. 

    Determines the car that it is going into.  The 2.0L LNF engine has optional direct injection specific Wiseco pistons, all other models come with (non direct injection) JE pistons.  When you select "Turbo" you will get a oil pan with a oil return bung installed.  The stroker engines will require our ZZP specific stroker aluminum flywheel in option 2.

    Option 1:
    Select what kind of balance shafts you would like installed in your engine.

    Option 2:
    Select what kind of flywheel you would like balanced with the new rotating assembly.

    Option 3:
    Select what kind of harmonic balancer/damper you would like balanced to your rotating assembly.  ATI balancers will help with the harmonic vibration that these engines make at high RPM, so you can spin your engine to higher than stock RPM without failure.  The ATI overdrive balancer is larger so it will spin the serpentine belt 1 supercharger pulley size faster.  The ATI underdrive balancer is 12% smaller to reduce the drag from the accessories and is intended for Turbo and NA applications.

    Option 4:
    Select what rods you would like installed.  Our ZZP rods are the most affordable option and they have been tested without failure to 898whp.

    Option 5:
    You will need to select the proper compression piston for your engine.  TVS and Turbocharged cars will generally run the lower compression, where a M62 supercharged car would run the higher compression so you don't have to try to run high boost where the M62 looses its efficiency.  The 2.1L adds .2 to the compression listed due to the extra cubic inch being forced into the combustion chamber.  

    Due to the weight and size, our short blocks are shipped by freight.  "shipping to business" means that it is going to a location that has a forklift to remove the skid from the truck.   "shipping to residence" means that it is going to your house and you will need a lift gate to remove the skid from the truck.  Our website will email you a tracking number that you will have to enter into the "Pro Number" box on the R&L Carriers website page:  http://www.rlcarriers.com/shiptrace.asp

    Important break in procedure:
    We recommend that you install the engine, fill with oil, then leave the injector harness unplugged and turn engine over until the oil pressure light goes out.  This ensures that you are starting the engine with full oil pressure.

    When the engine is running, at light throttle, bring it up to 4500rpm, then coast down to near idle(still in gear), then 5000, then 5500, then 6000, and 6500 each time letting it coast down to idle. This will help seat the rings. Then after a couple heat cycles, start running it under power. 



    Can I send you parts to install?

    Some items we can use of yours. We do not recommend using your balancer. Ours are press fit instead of the original fitment. Using your balancer will void your warranty.

    Anything we use of yours will be inspected prior to installation but we cannot guarantee items we are not selling.


    How much power will I gain with the stroker LSJ and no other changes?

    Expect 40 additional WHP and 40ft/lbs of torque on an LSJ with no other changes. With our high compression pistons and E85 fuel, we made 400WHP with this bottom end and a factory M62 blower.


    How much power will the engine handle?

    We tested our 2.0 version of this motor in Ryan's turbo cobalt with over 50psi of boost. The car made 898WHP before the head gasket started leaking.


    Our stroker motor is currently being tested. We made 570WHP and ran into transmission problems. We'll be back to testing again shortly.


    5-26-2011, Engine has now been tested to 719WHP w/o failure. 30psi.


    What rpm can I spin to?

    The engine is built to withstand 9,000 rpm. Valve springs, cam selection, blower pulley, will determine its limitations. Engines with OEM balance shafts should not be run past 7k rpm.


    Does the stroker motor need anything special?

    The stroker engine option, will bolt right into your LSJ car. It uses a gen 2 block so external oil cooling is eliminated. you will need to loop your oil lines.


    Will I get all of my core money back?

    If there is damage to the block, you will lose 1/2 of your core. If there is other or additional damage, the core will be reduced accordingly. Email if you have detailed questions.



    Warranty information:

    Warranty is 1 year. Warranty begins on date of purchase and covers defects in materials and workmanship.  The warranty provides for a replacement or repair (at our discretion) of engine only, and does not cover labor, shipping, or any other costs.  Purchaser and installer assume all liability with regard to any and all damages in any way related to the purchase, shipping, installation, and/or use of this engine.

    HP related, and tuning related failures are not covered under warranty. This means piston melt down/chipping, blown head gaskets, or broken sleeves are not covered under warranty.  We recommend discussion usage plans and having us build an appropriate engine for you to avoid this problem.


    Here are examples of what is and what is not covered and how we’ll take care of it:

    • The warranty starts the day you have it installed or it arrives if shipped. Mileage does not affect warranty.
    • If your motor ingests debris, it will not be covered by warranty 
    • If you run the motor out of oil, do not run synthetic oil, or do not change the oil at regular intervals it will not be covered under warranty.
    • If you have an oil cooler installed which leaks and causes engine failure it will not be covered under warranty.
    • If you have a flywheel which breaks or the bolts back out it will not be covered under warranty.
    • If you have an engine installed here and it needs service you must bring your car back. If this isn't possible you will be responsible for the local R&R and it will have to be shipped back for warranty. You will be responsible for shipping here and we will pay for return shipping. If your engine breaks on the way home, we limit liability to a 50 mile tow, after which you will be responsible for all costs. Please take this into account when considering whether to drive in for an install or have it done locally.
    • For service on engines that were shipped (including units that have problems immediately), you will be responsible for return shipping. We will pay for shipping back to you. Our engines are tested before shipping so the chance of this should be very small. If you choose to have a shop do any repair on your engine, we will not be responsible for any charges unless prior arrangements have been made and agreed upon in writing detailing specifics.
    • If you have another shop work on your engine internals or you open it yourself, the ZZP warranty is void and we will not be liable for any costs or problems in the future.
    • If the engine you receive has sensors on it, they are not covered under warranty. We are selling you the engine, not the sensors.

    Depending on the shipping location, there could be extra charges for shipping.


    Advantages of ZZP girdle over sleeves?
    - Better cooling
    - Better head gasket sealing on high HP builds
    - Much less chance of install/build error
    - Less cost
    - Far less material removed. Less chance of coolant leaks or block failure.
    - Longer life due to less cylinder distortion.  Girdling blocks have better rigidity than stock.

    The OEM sleeves are extremely strong. They are steel, the problem is that they are completely unsupported at the area they receive the most stress. When breaking people thought the sleeves we're weak so they installed darton kits. Problem with Darton sleeves is that they destroy your block. The block becomes weak, cooling is greatly reduced, weight is increased. The picture below shows this on two blocks cut in 1/2. 1st, see the red between cylinders? that's from cracking where the block is cut so thin that it can't hold expansion contraction of steel sleeves which grow at a different rate. Alum is brittle. The lock tite went right inbetween cylinders into the cracks that the owner didn't even know were there. 2nd, look at the sleeve casing of the block and edges. That is all that is holding the block together now. You've cut HALF of the material holding the top and bottom of the block together. This is why high HP builds break them in 2 and have to be 'fixed' by running studs top to bottom.

    We have experienced sleeved cars with cooling issues and noticed that they run hotter than stock vehicles. There is also talk about the differences in a Gen 1 and Gen 2 block. Below is a sleeved Gen 1 block. The areas in blue are where coolant is traveling. Notice how the cooling on the Gen 1 block covers less than 1/2 of the cylinder bore but on the Gen 2 it covers 2/3 of it? This is the increased cooling discussed on the Gen 2 block but is also what causes them to crack and leak coolant into the oil in high HP applications.
    With sleeves you change things a bit tho. The stock sleeve is only 60 thousands thick. The lower part of the cooled sleeve is a total of .220 thick with the top being .300 thick. .240 is aluminum which cools very well. The Darton sleeve is .280 thick of steel which doesn't transfer heat well. This is where some of the increased cylinder wear comes from and why Darton sleeved motors run hotter. 

    This brings us back to the cars Darton showcases and the GM race vehicles. Guess what? They run filled blocks and methanol and only run for seconds at a time. Methanol burns very, very cool. But when building a street motor, heat matters a lot. KR comes quicker on sleeved blocks and timing and/or boost must be reduced, lowering overall HP potential.

    Product Reviews
    Overall Customer Rating:
    Customer Reviews: 1
    570 hp
    Review Date:

    If you plan on making big hp number zzp short blocks are the way to go. all i can say is you get what you pay for!

    (tx2k14 LSJ 570 hp and still got to turn the boost up)