The Gen 3 block is a huge improvement for GM and solves previous shortcomings of the Gen 1 & 2 versions of the Ecotec motor. In fact, the Gen 3 block supports over 500WHP in stock form.
-Cylinder wall bracing that prevents sleeves from breaking out in high HP applications
-Sand casting which removes porosity found in the older foam cast blocks
-5 pounds of additional aluminum adding internal structural support and solves the coolant jacket leakage issues with Gen 2 blocks
This is a fully assembled brand new short block, includes block, bearings, crank, pistons, & rings assembled as in the picture. Does not include the water pump, timing chain assembly (guides/chain), or the front cover.
Important break in procedure:
We recommend running Joe Gibbs "Break in" or Brad Penn "Break in" green oil for the first 200 miles. Before you start the car with the new engine, we recommend that you fill with oil, then leave the injector harness unplugged and turn engine over until the oil pressure light goes out, or even better, use an oil pressure gauge. This ensures that you are starting the engine with full oil pressure.
When the engine is running in gear and at light throttle, bring it up to 4500rpm, then coast down to near idle(still in gear), then 5000, then 5500, then 6000, and 6500 each time letting it coast down to idle. This will help seat the rings. Then after a couple heat cycles, start running it under power.
What else is needed to install this in my car?
-For the top of the motor you will need to bolt on your head. This will require a new head gasket and head studs or new GM bolts.
-For the bottom of the motor, you will need to install your oil pan.
-For the back, you will bolt your existing flywheel onto this motor. Normally the bolts are replaced when doing this.
-The front of the motor will require your front cover, water pump, timing chain, balancer and basic engine accessories.
2.0, 2.2, and 2.4 have swappable parts.
2.0 and 2.2 are the same block (86mm bore) but the 2.0 has piston squirters. You can add them to other blocks but the cost doesn't make it worth it normally when building the blocks. Better to just start with a 2.0 block. All the ZZP 86mm blocks come with piston squirters.
Being that the parts are interchangeable it doesn't make sense when building a 2.2, to stay at 2.2 liters. You’re better off with a 2.4 block (88mm bore) or using 2.0 parts.
Assuming you have the right year parts, you can bolt any head on any block w/o any issue. The flywheels and cranks and balancers, everything interchanges. The 2.2 and 2.4 cranks are cast with 6 flywheel bolts. They use the same flywheel and we make a 9.5” flywheel with 6 bolts so that you can use those cranks with the larger 2.0 clutches.
Otherwise for strength in boosted applications, you want a 2.0 crank as it is the only forged crank.
You can use a 2.4 block with a 2.0 crank to achieve 2.1 liters. Then you have the strength with more displacement. Each route has some pros and cons depending what you’re doing.
There are a few styles of reluctor wheels on the crankshafts and when changing motors, sometimes this needs to be addressed. The newer 2.2's, all 2.4's and all turbo 2.0's have the same crank position sensors and the reluctor wheels are all clocked the same. The LSJ is a gen 1 motor and the reluctor wheel is clocked differently than on Gen 2 & 3 motors. The 2.4 crank uses a smaller reluctor wheel so that the piston and rods clear it but the function and pickup is essentially the same. While all of this sounds complicated and can cause serious issues if done wrong, it's not actually a difficult problem to address. We recommend working with ZZP so that we can set you up properly for what you are trying to do. As long as we know what motor you are replacing or what vehicle you have, it's very easy for us to give you the right parts.